A Mansion of Merchants: Patwon Ki Haveli Story

 

Located in the heart of Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, Patwon Ki Haveli is one of the most iconic and architecturally stunning havelis in India. It is not just a single haveli but a cluster of five grand havelis, built side by side by a wealthy merchant family. It is known for its intricately carved sandstone facades, jharokhas (balconies), and exquisite mirror work, representing the rich artistic legacy of Rajasthan.

Patwon Ki Haveli is often the first haveli visited by tourists in Jaisalmer due to its proximity to the Jaisalmer Fort and the main market. The building, made entirely of yellow sandstone, glows golden in the sunlight, earning Jaisalmer its nickname – The Golden City.

Inside, the haveli features ornate corridors, frescoes, archways, mini balconies, and beautifully decorated rooms. Each section tells a different story of the Patwa family's wealth, lifestyle, and business acumen. Today, some parts of the haveli have been turned into museums and art galleries, showcasing artifacts from the royal and merchant eras.

The haveli is a fine example of Rajasthani architecture mixed with Mughal influences, and it's a must-visit for photographers, history lovers, and architecture enthusiasts. The beautiful carvings and intricate designs on the windows and doors reflect the craftsmanship of local artisans of that era.

A walk through Patwon Ki Haveli feels like stepping back in time, offering a rare glimpse into the lifestyle of Jaisalmer’s affluent traders. It's not just a monument; it's a living piece of heritage that still speaks through its walls.

History of Patwon Ki Haveli 

Patwon Ki Haveli was constructed in the early 19th century by Guman Chand Patwa, a wealthy Jain merchant who made his fortune through trade in gold, silver, brocade, and opium. He was one of the richest men in Jaisalmer and decided to build not one, but five havelis, one for each of his five sons.

Construction began in 1805 and took over 50 years to complete. The havelis were designed with the help of skilled artisans and craftsmen from across Rajasthan and even parts of Gujarat. The first haveli is the most elaborate and architecturally impressive, often considered the highlight of the complex.

Each haveli served as a private residence but was also used for business dealings and entertaining guests. The Patwa family, being Jains, also used parts of the havelis for religious rituals and community gatherings. Over time, as the family's wealth declined and political situations changed, parts of the havelis were sold or handed over to the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI).

Today, three of the five havelis are maintained by the ASI, while the others are under private ownership. The ASI-managed havelis have been transformed into museums, showcasing ancient artifacts, paintings, furniture, and utensils used by the merchant class.

The architecture of Patwon Ki Haveli reflects the fusion of Rajputana and Mughal styles. The façades are known for their detailed latticework, murals, and mirror decorations. The corridors and courtyards are designed to allow ventilation, keeping the interiors cool in the desert heat.

The haveli has seen the rise and fall of the Patwa family, the transformation of Jaisalmer from a trade hub to a tourist destination, and the preservation of heritage through state intervention. It's not just a piece of architecture—it is a historical document carved in stone.

Visitors today can still sense the grandeur and vision that Guman Chand Patwa had. Despite the passage of time, Patwon Ki Haveli stands tall as a symbol of Jaisalmer’s golden era, offering an invaluable glimpse into the opulent lifestyle of its wealthy merchant class.

Nearby Tourist Attractions

1. Jaisalmer Fort
Known as Sonar Quila (Golden Fort), this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the few "living forts" in the world. Built in 1156 AD by Rawal Jaisal, the fort houses shops, homes, temples, and palaces within its golden walls. Its massive structure and intricate architecture make it the centerpiece of Jaisalmer and a must-visit attraction near Patwon Ki Haveli.

2. Nathmal Ki Haveli
Built by two brothers for the Prime Minister of Jaisalmer, Nathmal Ki Haveli is an architectural marvel with beautifully carved exteriors. Interestingly, the two sides of the haveli are slightly different, as each brother worked independently. The haveli also features unique paintings and a blend of Islamic and Rajput styles. It’s just a short walk from Patwon Ki Haveli.

3. Salim Singh Ki Haveli
This haveli is famous for its peacock-shaped roof and unusual architecture. Built in the 18th century by Salim Singh, the then Prime Minister of Jaisalmer, it stands out with its 38 balconies, each with a different design. Located close to Patwon Ki Haveli, it's an excellent example of the lavish lifestyle of Jaisalmer’s elite.

4. Gadisar Lake
Originally constructed by Maharaja Gadsi Singh, this artificial lake was once the main source of water for the city. Surrounded by temples and ghats, it's a peaceful spot ideal for photography and boating. The tranquil setting and reflections of heritage buildings on the water create a postcard-perfect scene, just a few minutes from Patwon Ki Haveli.

5. Desert Cultural Centre & Museum
This small yet informative museum showcases Rajasthani art, history, and culture. It features antique coins, folk music instruments, and miniature models of forts and havelis. Puppet shows and local performances are also held here. It's a great place to learn about desert life and traditional craftsmanship near Patwon Ki Haveli.

6. Bada Bagh
Located a few kilometers from the city, Bada Bagh is a garden complex housing royal cenotaphs (chhatris) of Jaisalmer’s rulers. Set against the desert backdrop, the structures are stunning at sunrise and sunset. The peaceful surroundings and impressive stone carvings make it a top spot for history and photography enthusiasts.

7. Sam Sand Dunes
About 40 km from Jaisalmer, the Sam Sand Dunes offer a true desert safari experience. Visitors can enjoy camel rides, jeep safaris, and cultural performances under the stars. The sunset over the golden sand is unforgettable. It’s one of the most popular excursions from Jaisalmer and an essential part of a desert tour.

How to Reach Patwon Ki Havel

By Air:

Jaisalmer Airport is 12 km away. Regular flights from Delhi, Jaipur. Take taxi/auto to reach Patwon Ki Haveli.

By Train:

Jaisalmer Railway Station is 2 km away. Trains from Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur. Auto or cab takes 10 minutes.

By Road:

Well-connected by road from Jodhpur, Bikaner, Jaipur. Buses and taxis available. Local transport leads to haveli area.